Coquille St. Jacques from a public market (photo by Steve Dolinsky)
One of the things you'll notice on local menus lately -- along with the words "local" and "organic" - is "sustainable." It can be used to reference produce, but also seafood. Just a few weeks ago, I noticed the menu at Prasino, in La Grange, makes special mention of their "sustainably raised" seafood. What the hell does that mean?
I'm in Paris to find out. More precisely, I'm attending the annual Seafood Summit here, a three-day seafood geek-fest that brings together the world's leading authorities from the seafood industry and the conservation community, and then attempts to bridge the gap between the latest science and the reality of the marketplace. It's a Trekkie convention for seafood junkies. The kind of place wigged-out fans would beg David Pasternack for an autograph.