WBEZ | Coon Feed http://www.wbez.org/tags/coon-feed Latest from WBEZ Chicago Public Radio en 86th Annual Tom McNulty Coon Feed http://www.wbez.org/blogs/louisa-chu/2013-01/86th-annual-tom-mcnulty-coon-feed-105189 <p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8426009213/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/coonfeedtablecard.jpg" style="width: 620px;" title="Coon Feed table card at the Delafield American Legion Post 196 in Wisconsin (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></p><p>Table cards and a heated waiting tent &mdash; with retro lounge seating and bar waiter service no less &mdash; at Coon Feed? With the trend-setting communal tables and perfectly roasted raccoon, one might think one was dining at a fancy restaurant in Chicago.</p><p>While <a href="http://www.wbez.org/blogs/louisa-chu/2012-09/huntress-gatherer-cuisine-102176">Elizabeth has served a raccoon bolognese</a>, and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Next-Restaurant/114693845229862">Next&#39;s current theme is The Hunt</a>, they have a long way to go with wild game compared to the veterans at the <a href="http://www.delafieldlegion.com/">Delafield American Legion Post 196</a>, who served the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/130151323814610/">86th Annual Tom McNulty Coon Feed</a> in Wisconsin this past Saturday.</p><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8425984155/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/coonfeedplate.jpg" style="height: 414px; width: 620px;" title="Coon Feed dinner with roasted raccoon, stuffing, mashed potatoes with gravy, turkey, bread, relish tray, and local Delafield craft beer (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></div><div class="image-insert-image ">I wrote about <a href="http://www.wbez.org/blog/louisa-chu/2012-01-26/85th-annual-coon-feed-95828">Coon Feed extensively last year</a>, though I missed it because of my visit to Japan&#39;s earthquake and tsunami recovery region.&nbsp;</div><div class="image-insert-image ">&nbsp;</div><div class="image-insert-image ">Especially after that visit, I&#39;m relieved to report that the annual raccoon dinner remains mostly unchanged.</div><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: center;"><div class="image-insert-image "><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8425996267/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/coonfeeddumbwaiter.jpg" style="width: 620px;" title="Coon Feed roasted raccoon delivery system (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></div><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: left;">As usual, about 300 diners feasted on this increasingly rare delicacy. Though this year, a near record number of raccoons was served, 80 or so, up from 60 in recent years.&nbsp;</div><div class="image-insert-image "><div class="image-insert-image "><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8427079134/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/coonfeedtakeout.jpg" style="height: 414px; width: 620px;" title="Coon Feed takeout and apron (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></div><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: left;">So much so that they generously gave me a half-gallon container of raccoon meat to take home. Of course I will share with my friends at WBEZ.</div><div class="image-insert-image "><div class="image-insert-image "><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8426018373/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/coonfeedlillian.jpg" style="height: 414px; width: 620px;" title="Coon Feed hostess Lillian McNulty (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></div><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: left;">Coon Feed hostess Lillian McNulty held court, her tiny frame sporting the 86th annual commemorative t-shirt. She donated t-shirt proceeds to&nbsp;the local Waukesha County chapter of the <a href="http://www.iwla.org/">Izaak Walton League of America</a>. The dinner proceeds benefit American Legion youth programs. Though I&#39;d say the dinner benefits those of us who return year after year.</div><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: left;">&nbsp;</div><div class="image-insert-image " style="text-align: left;">While the <a href="http://www.delafieldlegion.com/auxiliary.php">Delafield Legion Ladies Auxiliary Unit 196</a> does a mean dessert table, a visit to Wisconsin would not be complete without frozen custard. Fancy places like <a href="http://www.shakeshack.com/">Shake Shack</a> might copy custard, but there&#39;s only one Coon Feed.</div><div class="image-insert-image "><div class="image-insert-image "><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8425979221/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/koppsmrfudgie.jpg" style="height: 414px; width: 620px;" title="Kopp's Frozen custard Mr. Fudgie with hot fudge (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></div></div></div></div></div><p>&nbsp;</p></p> Tue, 29 Jan 2013 05:00:00 -0600 http://www.wbez.org/blogs/louisa-chu/2013-01/86th-annual-tom-mcnulty-coon-feed-105189 Eat this, drink that: Coon Feed, Sean Brock, Chicken Freedom, and more http://www.wbez.org/blogs/louisa-chu/2013-01/eat-drink-coon-feed-sean-brock-chicken-freedom-and-more-105142 <p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/8414146867/"><img alt="" class="image-original_image" src="http://www.wbez.org/system/files/styles/original_image/llo/insert-images/coonfeed2008_0.jpg" style="height: 412px; width: 620px;" title="Raccoon dinner at American Legion Post 196, Delafield, Wisconsin from 2008 (WBEZ/Louisa Chu)" /></a></p><p><strong>Friday, January 25</strong></p><p><em>Feast &amp; Imbibe pop-up</em>:&nbsp;Modernist moto restaurant&nbsp;protégés D&#39;Andre Carter and Heather Bublick&nbsp;present <a href="https://twitter.com/FeastandImbibe">Feast &amp; Imbibe</a>, their debut pop up,&nbsp;at an <a href="http://www.popuprepublic.com/component/content/article/243-dining-il/restaurants-happenings/1716-feast-and-imbibe.html">underground location in Evanston</a>. Feast on a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=451948888205995&amp;set=a.444609198939964.101254.442292685838282&amp;type=1">five course menu</a> including seared bass with carbonated wild grapefruit, Pu-erh&nbsp;tea smoked octopus, A Study of Quail, braised short ribs, and breakfast for dessert. Imbibe&nbsp;Few Spirits&nbsp;cocktails and Mouton Noir&nbsp;wine pairings.&nbsp;Admission $75.</p><p><strong>Saturday, January 26</strong></p><p><em>Coon Feed:</em>&nbsp;<a href="http://www.delafieldlegion.com/">American Legion Post 196</a> presents the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/130151323814610/">86th annual Tom McNulty Coon Feed</a> in Delafield (Wisconsin) benefitting Legion youth programs. The tasty dinner with all the fixings includes <a href="http://www.wbez.org/blog/louisa-chu/2012-01-26/85th-annual-coon-feed-95828">braised raccoon, mashed potatoes, stuffing, warm sauerkraut, coleslaw, and a classic roadhouse relish tray</a>. Turkey is available as an&nbsp;alternate meat. Admission, adults&nbsp;$12 suggested donation, kids&nbsp;$6.</p><p><strong>Monday, January 28</strong></p><p><em>Chávez c</em><em>hef garden party:</em> Some of Chicago&#39;s top chefs and&nbsp;<a href="http://www.thekitchencommunity.org/">The Kitchen Community</a>&nbsp;are throwing<a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/434946969894522/"> a garden party</a> at the <a href="http://www.chavez.cps.k12.il.us/">Cesar E. Chávez Multicultural Academic Center</a> to raise funds for a learning garden.&nbsp;The star chef line-up includes Schwa&#39;s Michael Carlson, Sepia&#39;s Andrew Zimmerman, The Southern&#39;s Cary Taylor, Near&#39;s Gaetano Nardulli, Guildhall&#39;s Christian Ragano, and more. The Aviary&#39;s GM Chris Gerber hosts; plus Rare Tea Cellar, Peace Tree Brewery, Scrumptious Pantry, and more will serve. Admission $75 suggested donation.</p><p><em>Sean Brock at&nbsp;</em><em>Amigos de Pintxo:&nbsp;</em><a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/131729880328202/">Amigos de Pintxo welcomes chefs Sean Brock</a>&nbsp;to <a href="http://www.standandeat.com/">Barcito for the fortnightly fiesta</a>&nbsp;benefitting <a href="http://www.wbez.org/blog/louisa-chu/2011-08-26/pilot-light-chefs-get-schooled-lunch-91042">Pilot Light</a>. Critically acclaimed Brock, of Husk and McCrady&#39;s in Charleston, will serve hand-carved, two-year Ossabaw country ham; fried pickled green tomatoes with pimento cheese; fried pig ears with chow chow; bibb lettuce with benne; Carolina crab with grilled cabbage and kimchee purée; and Husk BBQ pork ribs. Admission $25, all-you-can-eat.</p><p><em>Chicken Freedom Project c</em><em>hef chili cook-off:</em>&nbsp;Chef Troy Graves hosts a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/326646730787010/">chef chili cook-off</a> at <a href="http://reddoorchicago.com/">Red Door Kitchen &amp; Bar</a> with 100% of ticket sales benefitting&nbsp;the <a href="http://www.slagelfamilyfarm.com/donate.html">Chicken Freedom Project by Slagel Family Farms</a>. Chili chefs include Red Door&#39;s Graves, La Sirena Clandestina&#39;s John Manion,&nbsp;Carriage House&#39;s Mark Steuer, The Butcher &amp; Larder&#39;s Rob and Allie Levitt, Pleasant House Bakery&#39;s Art and Chelsea Jackson,&nbsp;Three Aces&#39; Matt Troost, Farmhouse&#39;s Eric Mansavage, and soon-to-open endgrain&#39;s Enoch Simpson.&nbsp;Admission $25 includes chili and one cocktail by&nbsp;one cocktail by Olmeca Altos tequila.</p><p><em>Trenchermen at The Dinner Party:&nbsp;</em><a href="http://fearnoartchicago.com/">Fear No ART</a>&nbsp;presents <a href="http://www.maynestage.com/6d60daed-1cda-4f81-b9d3-7dcd00057e81.aspx">The Dinner Party with guests including Trenchermen chefs/owners/brothers Michael and Patrick Sheerin</a>&nbsp;at the Mayne Stage. The Trenchermen will serve milk-braised pork shoulder with brown butter spaghetti squash, and pecorino with romaine; plus wine pairings by Vin Divino and chocolate by Vosges. Admission $30.</p><p><em>Nightwood at Embeya Asian soup guest chef series:</em>&nbsp;<a href="https://twitter.com/ThaidangEats">Chef Thai Dang</a> presents the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=523341594362921&amp;set=a.401490096548072.95312.368284559868626&amp;type=1">Asian Soup Guest Chef&nbsp;Series debut with Nightwood&#39;s Jason Vincent</a> at <a href="http://www.embeya.com/">Embeya</a>, benefitting the <a href="http://www.greencitymarket.org/">Green City Market</a>. Vincent&#39;s soup: rich walleye broth with fish dumpling, crispy carrot, foie gras jelly, and coriander.&nbsp;Admission $9 per guest chef soup.</p><p><strong>Tuesday, January 29</strong></p><p><em>3 Floyds dinner and tap takeover at Trenchermen: </em>The busy brothers Sheerin present a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/449206215134991/">five-course dinner with 3 Floyds pairings plus tap takeover</a> at <a href="http://www.trenchermen.com/">their restaurant Trenchermen</a>. The menu: hors d&rsquo;ouevres and bar snacks with Jinx Proof beer; charred sepia terrine with Gumballhead; smoked hake and brandade with Rye&#39;da Tiger; mystery third course; aged Pekin duck, foie gras, chicory sausage, and steel cut oat <em>pot de feu</em> with Barrel Aged Black Sun Stout; and citrus cake, grapefruit sorbet, and pistachio nougat glacé with Zombie Dust. Admission $85 for dinner; tap takeover open without dinner reservations, beer prices vary.</p><p><strong>Wednesday, January 30</strong></p><p><em>LTH Forum at&nbsp;</em><em>Soup &amp; Bread&#39;s&nbsp;</em><em>Beans, Beer, and Bacon:</em> <a href="http://soupandbread.net/">Soup &amp; Bread</a> presents this week&#39;s theme: <a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApPhpdY9KXzPdDRfMUk3WFFoZlRNd2VvR0RJcjdJS1E#gid=0">The 3 B&#39;s: Beans, Beer, and Bacon</a>,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.hideoutchicago.com/event/198205-soup-bread-chicago/">at the Hideout</a>. Soup and bread chefs include my <a href="http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=19&amp;t=36428">friends from LTH Forum</a>, plus fine folks from&nbsp;<a href="http://cedarvalleysustainable.com/">Cedar Valley Sustainable Farm</a>, benefitting&nbsp;<a href="http://www.lakeviewpantry.org/">Lakeview Pantry</a>&nbsp;this week. The LTH soup menu:&nbsp;vegan split pea soup with Lost Coast 8 Ball Stout beer; vegetarian Wisconsin Cheddar beer soup with optional bacon; vegan ginger soybean soup with optional beer-braised pork belly; <em>carne en su jugo</em>; and more. LTH bread menu: bacon cornbread; cornbread with corn kernels, cornbread with grilled onions and cheese; and as always this season, loaves from Publican Quality Meats and La Farine Bakery. Plus LTH dessert menu: blondies and more. Admission FREE for soup, bread, and dessert; please donate what you can; and remember <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/louisachu/7071326897/">Everyone LOVES the Generous!</a></p><p><strong>Thursday, January 31</strong></p><p><em>Afternoon Shift live at The Old Town Ale House:</em> WBEZ presents&nbsp;a <a href="http://www.wbez.org/live-remote-broadcast-afternoon-shift-105101">live remote broadcast of the Afternoon Shift with host Rick Kogan</a> at <a href="http://www.theoldtownalehouse.com/">The Old Town Ale House</a>. Guests scheduled to appear include Nobel Prize-winning, <em>New York Times</em> columnist Paul Krugman; and Second City CEO/co-owner Andrew Alexander. Please note: <a href="http://storify.com/ChicagoSunTimes/richard-marx-vs-wbez">no one gets a parking spot</a>&nbsp;&mdash; and <a href="http://www.salon.com/2013/01/19/richard_marx_hates_my_guts/">that means nobody</a>. Admission FREE!</p></p> Fri, 25 Jan 2013 05:00:00 -0600 http://www.wbez.org/blogs/louisa-chu/2013-01/eat-drink-coon-feed-sean-brock-chicken-freedom-and-more-105142 The 85th annual coon feed http://www.wbez.org/blog/louisa-chu/2012-01-26/85th-annual-coon-feed-95828 <img typeof="foaf:Image" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/photo/2012-January/2012-01-26/coonfeed2011.jpg" alt="" /><p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="caption" height="450" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/insert-image/2012-January/2012-01-25/coonfeed2011.jpg" title="Raccoon dinner 2011" width="600"></p><p>Raccoon may be regarded as a culinary throwback, but in Chicago it's played an accidental role in the city's worldwide reputation for futuristic fine dining—thanks to a local community dinner held nearly every year since 1927.</p><p>First, please let me address the elephant in the room, or raccoon—or coon. We are referring to the animal, not the offensive racial slur. While I've been the target of racism myself, I only realized recently that this particular <a href="http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?search=coon&amp;searchmode=none">word's modern meaning</a> appears primarily hurtful. Evidently so much so that in <a href="http://www.suntimes.com/lifestyles/food/9998847-423/food-detective-a-bite-of-the-wild-side-at-annual-raccoon-fest.html">Wednesday's <em>Sun-Times</em> Food Detective column</a>, written by my friend David Hammond, the word never appears—though its subject is Saturday's 85th annual Coon Feed in Delafield, Wisc.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="caption" height="400" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/insert-image/2012-January/2012-01-25/coonfeed2010.jpg" title="Raccoon dinner 2010" width="600"></p><p>So yes, we're talking about a raccoon dinner, which you may find offensive anyway. But you shouldn't. There it's served braised and tender, fragrant with aromatics and spices, with a full complement of sides—mashed potatoes, stuffing, warm sauerkraut, and coleslaw—all preceded with a classic roadhouse relish tray.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="caption" height="400" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/insert-image/2012-January/2012-01-25/coonfeed2009.jpg" title="Raccoon dinner 2009" width="600"></p><p>More importantly, it's a taste of history—and the future. The raccoon itself tastes like beef, and this preparation more precisely "like pot roast," says my friend <a href="http://www.greatermidwestfoodways.com/index.php/page/14.html">Catherine Lambrecht, one of the founders of Greater Midwest Foodways</a>. In 2005, Cathy read <a href="http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2005-01-29/news/0501290141_1_raccoon-feed-town">this fascinating article in the <em>Tribune</em></a> about the Delafield Coon Feed and its colorful history—with an Al Capone connection—then went up for the dinner that night.</p><p><a href="http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=T24aAAAAIBAJ&amp;sjid=JCoEAAAAIBAJ&amp;pg=2409%2C8395167">Founder Tom McNulty</a> was the town barber, as well as a hunter, veteran, and member of the <a href="http://www.delafieldlegion.com/">Delafield American Legion Post 196</a>, where the Feed is held. Proceeds from the dinners go to the Post's youth programs, while proceeds from the t-shirts go to the local chapter of the <a href="http://www.iwla.org/">Izaak Walton League of America</a>, "one of the nation's oldest and most respected conservation organizations," of which the late Mr. McNulty was president, and his wife Lillian is current president.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="caption" height="399" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/insert-image/2012-January/2012-01-25/coonfeed2008.jpg" title="Raccoon dinner 2008" width="600"></p><p>Cathy was credited—albeit anonymously—in the <a href="http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1042445,00.html"><em>Time Magazine</em> article about Moto</a>, which opens with Chef/Owner Homaro Cantu inventing his infamous dish "Roadkill." Cathy unwittingly supplied the inspiration—the raccoon—for the original dish. That year at the Feed, they had extra raccoon—other years, they run out—so the extra was actually brought back for our curious food friend, one David Hammond. Yes, small world.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="caption" height="450" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/insert-image/2012-January/2012-01-25/coonfeed2007.jpg" title="Raccoon dinner 2007" width="600"></p><p>Omar (Cantu) later used duck instead of raccoon when he added it to the menu. Moto—setting for <a href="http://planetgreen.discovery.com/tv/future-food/">Future Food on Planet Green</a>, and home to two <em><a href="http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-9/bio/richie-farina">Top</a> <a href="http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-9/bio/chris-jones">Chef</a></em> cheftestants—celebrates its eighth anniversary this year, celebrating for the very first time actually, offering their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/motorestaurant/posts/343348935690199">16-course Grand Tasting Menu with wine pairings at the opening day price of $150 per person</a>, February 7 to 9 only. It's nearly sold out—and well worth it—go if you can.</p><p>I've been going with Cathy to Coon Feed since 2006, after reading about her <a href="http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=22180#p22180">first visit on LTH, the Chicago food forum</a>. I was cooking in Paris then. She's since been back to <a href="http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=235417#p235417">help cook in 2009</a>, joined by another of our food friends, Michael Gebert, (aka <em>Sky Full of Bacon</em>) who made <a href="http://vimeo.com/3908958">this lovely film</a>.</p><p>I look forward to Coon Feed more than just about any other dinner anywhere every year. It's more than just the food, of course.</p><p>I'll miss the dinner this year, because I'll be in Japan on a culinary tour, visiting the earthquake recovery areas. I'll post from Japan all next week.</p><p>If you go, please tell Mrs. McNulty and <a href="http://www.lake-link.com/radio/show.cfm/100/Dan-Small-Outdoors-Radio//">Craig Hoagland</a>, who's leading the next generation in charge of this dinner's culinary history and future, that I hope to be back at the table next year.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="caption" height="398" src="http://llnw.wbez.org/blog/insert-image/2012-January/2012-01-26/mrsmcnultycraig.jpg" title="Lillian McNulty and Craig Hoagland (2009)" width="600"></p></p> Thu, 26 Jan 2012 15:00:00 -0600 http://www.wbez.org/blog/louisa-chu/2012-01-26/85th-annual-coon-feed-95828