WBEZ | beer

Midwest breweries lead environmental group's charge to fortify water laws

Fri, 12 Apr 2013 12:09:00 -0500

Raise a cold one this weekend and make a toast to the Clean Water Act.

That’s the advice of the Natural Resources Defense Council as they team up with 21 craft breweries in an effort to raise awareness of threats to the key ingredient in beer.

As any beginning homebrewer’s kitchen floor will attest, the brewing process requires a lot of water. Beer is 90 percent water, and including all the water it takes to clean brewing materials and rinse the packaged product, it can take 7 gallons of water to produce one gallon of beer.

“When you talk about beer, you have to talk about water. It’s not as sexy as talking about hops and malt,” said Jason Spaulding, co-owner of Brewery Vivant in Grand Rapids, Mich. “If we don’t look after [our water] long-term, it’s going to directly hurt our industry and our livelihood.”

Congress passed the Clean Water Act in 1972, following a series of high-profile pollution incidents including the Cuyahoga River fire of 1969. Citing recent congressional attempts to tinker with the law or erode the Environmental Protection Agency's authority to enforce clean water provisions, NRDC’s senior policy analyst Karen Hobbs said the coalition of brewers isn’t united for or against any particular policy proposal.

“We're hoping to work with the brewers to have a consistent industry voice in support of clean water,” Hobbs said. “Some brewers will want to enter into specific policy issues.”

Two supreme court decisions in 2001 and 2006 questioned the EPA’s jurisdiction to enforce the Clean Water Act. The agency and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers are waiting for clarification from the Obama administration before they enter into legal battles over water pollution where the legal definition of what waters are covered in the act is unclear. In Arizona, for example, storm water containing grease and oil from nearby construction sites pours into the San Pedro River for only part of the year. Since the tributaries carrying pollution do not flow year-round, the EPA dropped its enforcement efforts there to avoid a long and costly legal battle.

The bottom line for the nation’s craft brewers and their customers, however, is straightforward.

“If your water’s not good, your beer’s not going to be good,” Spaulding said.

Goose Island uses more than 18 million gallons of water each year, racking up a hefty water bill. Some large water users negotiate for a flat monthly fee for water, but many craft breweries, including Goose Island, pay a monthly rate based on how much water they actually use. Like any ratepayer in Chicago, Goose Island gets their water from Lake Michigan.

“Lake Michigan water has a really great chemical content to it to use as your blank canvas,” said Goose Island’s Ian Hughes.

Like many breweries, Goose Island is pursuing water conservation efforts, reusing water that rinses beer bottles after they’ve been filled and commissioning a life-cycle assessment of their product's environmental footprint.

Despite some recent rate hikes, water in the Great Lakes region is among the cheapest in the country. Even where rates are higher, many argue they don't reflect the true cost of water. If ensuring clean water costs more, Brewery Vivant’s Spaulding said he is prepared to pay.

“That’s a cost we’d be happy to pay,” he said. “Without that clean water you don’t have a viable business.”

Echo of past to help with the Blue Island’s future?

Thu, 07 Mar 2013 08:00:00 -0600

Dave Brown, the owner of Rock Island Public House in south suburban Blue Island, hopes to prove people wrong when it comes to getting good beer in his area.

“The reason we actually opened this bar was in part because everybody said it couldn’t be done,” said Brown. “Everybody said there’s no room for craft beer on the South Side. We feel that Blue Island’s kind of gotten lost or gets a bad reputation.”

Selling craft beer is not novel, of course, but it is part of what Brown sees as a new back-to-the future strategy of development along his stretch of Blue Island’s Olde Western Avenue and Broadway Street.

His building, like many on the block, has historic value and hearkens back to a time when Blue Island was teeming with industry and a sense of community. Blue Island was once home to many blue collar workers, but industry in the region has struggled. Residents have recently tried to revitalize the city through environmental initiatives and artist outreach — all while cautioning against the label of “hipster destination." The large Latino population is strongly blue collar, as is the ethos.

And when you meet Brown and other area business owners, they’re not shy about telling you so.

“We’re trying to emphasize there’s much more down here than public perception leads to,” Brown said.

The 35-year-old former resident of New Orleans moved to Blue Island in 2005 with his wife, Jennifer, who has been a longtime resident. Brown is also a part-time firefighter for the city.

Jason Berry, a city planner for Blue Island, told WBEZ “You have a chance to be pretty progressive. We’ve tried to do that with active transportation stuff with environmental stuff with music and the arts.” He added that the city's trying trying to push, and it's great that "The community all along seems to be saying yeah, keep doing it.”

Business operators told WBEZ that there will soon be an opportunity for Blue Island to consider playing up its past and rejuvenating the retail environment, as Republican Mayor Donald Peloquin is leaving after a tenure of nearly 30 years.

“This area of Olde Western Avenue could be really something special in this town because it’s a historic district,” said Mario Mendez, a lifelong resident and owner of Mario’s restaurant.

“This building was built before Abraham Lincoln became president," he said. "This area could be very special if it was taken care of if the city devoted money and time into making it something that no one has around here.”

Mendez pointed out several historic photos on the wall of his Mexican restaurant. Such photos are also shown prominently at Brown's public house as well.

That kind of civic pride is also on display at neighboring Jeben’s Hardware, where customers can stand beneath antique airplanes suspended from the ceiling. A whistle can surprise visitors, too. The source? A model train that circles the store shelves.

“I hope to see a new mayor that comes in to all of the businesses because even the chamber of commerce. This is what makes this community,” said Judy Tuma, the hardware store's manager.

Tuma and Mendez both think the city could do more for Olde Western Avenue to help increase local business.

“What I see is we’re down here cut off from main street Blue Island and sometimes this area can be more prosperous and buildings full compared to what’s going on uptown…. We need to clean up,” Tuma said.

Booming craft breweries attract new beer makers to Chicago

Thu, 20 Sep 2012 15:14:00 -0500

Wil Turner loves beer.

He gushes about its flavorful notes and tones like a seasoned sommelier. But he does it while wearing a baseball cap and listening to the punk rock band Black Flag.

Turner is head brewer at Revolution Brewing in Logan Square and a member of the Illinois Craft Brewers’ Guild.

These guys take beer seriously.

“We exchange raw materials, information and we love to go sample each other’s beer,” Turner said about the guild. “I like to call (it) liquid inspiration.”

Turner isn’t the only one feeling inspired lately.

The burgeoning craft brewery industry has led a growing number of Chicago beer lovers to start their own businesses.

The guild reports 57 craft breweries currently operate in Illinois and counts a whopping 67 more in planning.

The planning number includes some still wading through paperwork and setting up facilities.

It may take them months or years to open for business. But others are almost ready to pour pints.

Clint Bautz of Lake Effect Brewing has set up shop in Portage Park. He will distribute just a few kegs at a time.

It's taken him about a year and a half to set up a brewing facility, file all the necessary paperwork and find partnering pubs to carry his product.

Soon he’ll be able to sit down at a neighborhood bar and order his own beer.

“Definitely it will be a moment,” he said. “It will be a bit surreal. Definitely looking forward to that.”

Bautz decided it was time to go pro after realizing his homebrew hobby had taken over the house.

“We have three bedrooms,” Bautz said. “Fermentation was in one bedroom, and then I bought a few more fermenters and and started brewing beer in the other bedroom.”

Then it grew to a storage unit in the basement. And the deck.

The brewing process took over the kitchen and the boil over process left surfaces a sticky mess.

Bautz said brewing is part art, part science and a whole lot of janitorial labor.

The guild reports overall beer sales in the US dipped about one percent in 2011.

But craft brewing grew 13 percent last year, continuing the industry's trend toward double digit annual expansion.

Major players like California brewery Lagunitas recently announced plans to open a Chicago brewery and tap room.

And for now, it seems like there is still room for upstarts like Greg Shuff too.

Shuff will open Dryhop Brewers in Lakeview this winter.

The gastropub will tailor its food menu around seasonal brews made with locally sourced ingredients.

He thinks there is plenty of room for craft brewers to grow in Illinois.

“It’s an industry where no one wants anyone to do anything but make great beer,” he said. “We all look at it from the perspective of if one of us does well, it really elevates the whole craft beer scene and we all benefit from it.”

Lost landmark: Peter Hand Brewery

Fri, 02 Mar 2012 13:15:00 -0600

Chicago has many micro-breweries to quench the discerning thirst. Our subject here is the city's last "macro-brewery."

Peter Hand was a Prussian-born Civil War veteran who came to Chicago to work in the brewing industry. In 1891 he opened a small brewery of his own at North and Sheffield. His leading brand was called Meister Bräu--"master brew."

Hand died in 1899, but his brewery survived. Between 1920 and 1933 it was officially closed because of Prohibition. After repeal the plant was expanded several times. Meanwhile, dozens of other Chicago breweries came and went.

In 1965 a group of investors purchased the brewery and changed the name to Meister Bräu Inc., with the intention of going national. In Chicago, they launched an aggressive advertising campaign.

Meister Bräu sponsored Sox, Hawks and Bulls broadcasts. Franklyn MacCormack's "All Night Meister Bräu Showcase" became a popular radio program. Bottle openers, coasters, beer steins, and posters were given away. The number of Meister Bräu billboards around town was exceded only by those reading "Daley for Mayor."

All was well for a while. The brewery was producing over 1 million barrels of brew a year, with the new Lite Beer a big seller. But management had over-reached. The company started losing serious money. In 1972 the Meister Bräu brands were sold to Miller Brewing of Milwaukee.

The North Avenue plant went back to the Peter Hand name and rolled out a new beer called Old Chicago. The slide continued. Early in 1973 the company declared bankruptcy. The brewery was sold at auction to a new partnership led by an experienced brewer.

That lasted five years. Old Chicago Dark won a few blind-taste tests, yet never caught on. In 1978 the Peter Hand Brewery closed. Today the property at North and Sheffield is a strip mall.

Goose Island Brewery's acquisition: the exit interview (podcast)

Wed, 13 Apr 2011 11:00:00 -0500

Everyone in Chicago may have been shocked by the news recently that Goose Island had been bought by Anheuser-Busch InBev for a cool $39 million, but the deal - according to the family who started the local craft brewer - makes a lot of sense. While local beer drinkers were writing the epitaph for yet another local brand, the company's current (and soon to be former) Brewmaster says if they wanted to continue to meet demand for their specialty brands like Matilda and Pere Jacques, they had to either take on a huge amount of debt, or let A-B help them do it. The Hall family will retain ownership of their two local brewpubs, and while the purchase means the end of an already successful career for Greg Hall, it just might lead to something exciting in the future as well. I spoke with Hall last week at length about what the purchase means for the company and for its legions of loyal beer drinkers.

Why Anheuser-Busch bought Goose Island beer

Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:00:00 -0500

Some fans of craft beers are foaming over the news that industry giant Anheuser-Busch plans to buy 23 year-old Chicago-based, brewing powerhouse Goose Island Beer Co. The $38.8 million deal was announced Monday, but is set to close in June.

On the surface, the two brewers couldn't be more different: One is known for mass-marketed and mass appeal brands like Budweiser and Busch; the other is known for microbrews and specialty ales like 312 and Matilda.

So why would Anheuser-Busch gobble up Goose Island? Two words: craft brews.

“These critically acclaimed beers are the hometown pride of Chicagoans,” said Dave Peacock, president of the St. Louis-based Anheuser-Busch in a statement. “We are very committed to expanding in the high-end beer segment, and this deal expands our portfolio of brands with high-quality, regional beers. “As we share ideas and bring our different strengths and experiences together, we can accelerate the growth of these brands.”

As overall U.S. beer sales have fallen in recent years, the fast-growing craft brew market is expected to make up 11 percent of total beer consumption this year. “We just need to be more competitive there,” Peacock said. Led by its signature brew, Honkers Ale, last year sales of Goose Island grew 24 percent, selling $4.2 million in beer up from $3.4 million in 2004. Goose Island sold approximately 127,000 barrels of beer in 2010.

“Demand for our beers has grown beyond our capacity to serve our wholesale partners, retailers, and beer lovers,” said Goose Island CEO John Hall in a statement. “This agreement helps us achieve our goals with an ideal partner who helped fuel our growth, appreciates our products and supports their success.”

So what's next for Goose Island beer?

Goose Island’s beer will continue to be brewed in Chicago, and A-B plans to invest $1.3 million by this summer to boost production capacity by 10 percent, said Peacock. The deal does not include the acquisition of two Goose Island brewpubs, which will remain open, and no disruption to supply will occur in current markets.

Hall, who will stay on as CEO, added that the “new structure will preserve the qualities that make Goose Island’s beers unique, strictly maintaining our recipes and brewing processes.” Effective May 1st, Brewmaster Greg Hall will be step down, and will be replaced by Brett Porter, Head Brewer at Deschutes Brewery in Bend, Oregon where his beers have earned more than 150 awards.

As one of the Midwest’s first craft breweries creating acclaimed ales including 312 Urban Wheat Ale, India Pale Ale, Matilda, Pere Jacques and Sofie, as well as a wide variety of seasonal, draft-only and barrel-aged releases including Bourbon County Brand Stout - the original bourbon barrel-aged beer – followers who fear for the future of Goose Island Beer should rest easy.

"The beers will not change," said Goose Island Brand Ambassador, Ken Hunnemeder on Twitter. Calling the deal, “inevitable," he added, “it will allow us to make great beers that got bumped from the lineup."

Even more beer? Cheers to that.

Chicago bar owners wonder about Goose Island's future

Tue, 29 Mar 2011 09:00:00 -0500

Bar owners around Chicago are trying to figure out what the acquisition of Goose Island will mean to them.

Anheuser-Busch purchased Chicago-based Goose Island in a deal worth $38.8 million. Goose Island's CEO John Hall said the acquisition doesn't mean the recipes are going to change.

"If you've got problems with the quality or anything like that, you can call me up," Hall said.

Hall said the brewery will keep operating in Chicago.

Goose Island has earned a reputation for its craft brews as much as for its more popular drinks like Honkers Ale or 312. But bar owners like Phil McFarland, who runs Small Bar in Chicago's Ukranian Village neighborhood, said he's conflicted about the merger.

"I don't guess that Anheuser has bought them to make Budweiser knock offs and part of the appeal of a brewery like Goose Island is that they have the recipes they do that have the, sort of, respect in the market that they have and from a business point of view, I would have to think they'd be sort of crazy to mess with that too much, but time will tell," McFarland said.

Meanwhile, Chris Staten, the Beer Editor of Draft Magazine, said the acquisition shows Anheuser's further commitment to the craft brew market.

Hall said the company couldn't brew some of its specialty beers fast enough to keep up with demand and the deal with Anheuser-Busch will help with that.

"Chicago is going to continue to be our principle market," Hall said. "We will probably expand into some new markets, but we're not going to do any of those things until we supply the markets we're in right now."

Hall said Goose Island's roughly 120 employees will still operate in Chicago.

The deal still needs the approval of regulators, which is expected to come later this year.

Chicago's Goose Island brewery moves some beer production out of state

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 20:45:00 -0600

Chicago's Goose Island Beer Company is shifting some production to New Hampshire.

Goose Island brews popular beers like 312 and Honker's Ale, as well as specialty beers like Matilda, and limited-editions like its Bourbon County Stouts.

Brewmaster Greg Hall says production grew more than 20 percent last year. Goose Island is operating at "full capacity," and the company has demand for even more beer. The brewery is temporarily shifting some production of Honker's Ale and India Pale Ale to the Redhook Ale Brewery in Portsmouth, N.H.

Hall says the company eventually plans to build another brewery in Chicago, and bring that production back here. They're hoping to take advantage of growing demand:

"It's very exciting that it appears craft beer and Goose Island in particular has really gotten over that tipping point," Hall said. "We're not just for the real beer aficionados now. We're no longer a curiosity for the mainstream beer drinker. We're just part of the regular rotation."

Hall said that's partly because people's tastes have changed. He said many people favor more flavorful beers now.

He also credited the tough economy. He said people are saving money, so they're not necessarily buying new cars or taking trips to celebrate, but they still want to reward themselves. Demand for Matilda, one of the more expensive offerings from Goose, grew 97 percent last year.

"Beers' role as an affordable luxury is, I think, more important now than ever," he said.

Hall says the first batch of IPA brewed in New Hampshire ships this week. The brewery's doing a test batch of Honker's Ale right now. That beer will likely ship from the East Coast this spring.

Nationally, the craft brewing industry is growing quickly, according to figures from the Brewers Association. Craft beers were up 9 percent by volume in the first half of 2010, compared to overall U.S. beer sales, which dropped nearly 3 percent in that same time period.

New brew launches in Chicago

Fri, 21 Jan 2011 18:00:00 -0600

There's a new brew on the block as California's Firestone Walker Brewing made its highly anticipated Chicago debut last night at Piece Brewery and Pizzeria. Knowingly entering an already thriving craft beer community, Firestone Walker poured just three samples from their barrel-aged Proprietor's Reserve line, an Anniversary 14, Walker’s Reserve Porter, and Double Jack IPA, which will only be available on tap and bottled at gourmet restaurants and select bars. A purely "not-so-strategical" approach according to co-founder David Walker.

"The beer community in Chicago is intense and socially networked," said Walker. "They know we're here, they know where the beers are, and they'll try them and they'll drink them, that's our strategy." Considering Firestone Walker's Brewmaster, Matt Brynildson's strong ties to Chicago, that shouldn't pose too much of a problem. A founding partner in Piece and former head brewer at Goose Island, Brynildson is "ecstatic" with the Chicago launch, said Walker, and his friends, Nick Floyd of Three Floyds Brewing in Munster, Indiana, and former Firestone colleague Jim Cibak of Revolution came out in support and celebration. "It's great to be here," said Cibak, who has already been tapped by Walker for a future collaboration.

With no other goals at the present time than to just service and add spice to the market, Walker said he is confidant Chicagoans will embrace the limited brews. "People have wanted us here for awhile, so we're not too worried about the beer just sitting around."

Friday Foodie Forecast: Beers, Bears, and dining down under

Fri, 21 Jan 2011 13:00:00 -0600

Attention all beer aficionados and Bears fans: no need to go hungry or thirsty as this week's forecast has plenty in store to satiate appetites for both foodies and football fans alike. Whether you enjoy authentic food and brew from Australia's finest, or fine fare and cold beer crafted right here at home, experience it all in the days ahead without ever missing the action.

Aussies Embrace Chicago

Enjoy a spirited taste of Australia in Chicago as Executive Chef Frank Brunacci of Sixteen hosts the third annual Australia Week celebration at the Trump International Hotel and Tower from Friday, Jan. 21 through Wednesday, Jan. 26. As in past years, guests who join in the festivities will have the opportunity to experience unique menus, beers and wines from Down Under, as well as also enjoy art, travel and live music indigenous to the region. Highlights of the week include: An Evening with the Chefs and a Week-Long Menu, as well as Escape the Winter: Experience Australia, which will not only turn the entire 16th floor at Trump Tower into an Australian marketplace, but will give Chicago Bears fans the opportunity to view the NFC Championship game from multiple high-definition flat-screen TVs positioned throughout.

An Evening with the Chefs will take place at Sixteen on Friday, Jan. 21, where Chef Brunacci will be joined by New York's Le Cirque Chef Craig Hopson to collaborate in a special, six-course Australian dinner menu, interacting with guests as they drink wine provided by Negociants and poured by Sommelier Rachel Lowe. The menu for this evening is priced at $125 per person including wine pairings, and $105 per person,($155 with wine pairings) from Saturday, Jan. 22 through Wednesday, Jan. 26. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling 312-588-8030.

Escape the Winter: Experience Australia and the Chicago Bears viewing party takes place Sunday, Jan.23 from 1p.m. to 5p.m. Showcasing more than 30 wines provided by Wine Australia and brews from Cooper Beer, attendees can browse an aboriginal art fair, attend hourly wine seminars and enjoy in Chefs Brunacci and Hopson's authentic Australian cuisine from dozens of food stations. Raffle tickets for sale ($5 each) will provide a chance to win prizes, some of which include a 7-night trip for two to Australia and overnight stays at Trump Chicago and New York. The cost to attend is $45 per person with proceeds benefitting Chicago's Mercy Home for Boys & Girls. Trump International Hotel & Tower is located at 401 North Wabash. For more information, visit www.trumpchicagohotel.com/australia.

Beer Dinner at Branch 27

After sampling Aussie's finest, head to Branch 27 for a taste of locally crafted brew as they host a Founders Beer Dinner this Wednesday, Jan. 26 at 7:30 p.m. Diners will be welcomed with a Dry Hopped Pale Ale before beginning a four-course beer and dinner pairing. Featured fare includes a Dr. Pepper braised bbq pork belly served with Red Rye Ale, and smoked brisket with braised cabbage, bacon and barley risotto alongside a glass of Dirty Bastard. The entire "four-chapter" menu is $50 per person. Reservations are required to attend and can be made by emailing dine@branch27.com. Branch 27 is located at 1371 W. Chicago Avenue.

More Beer and Dinner at Nana's

Wrap up the week of beer-inspired food offerings with "A Spirited Dinner" at Nana Organic on Thursday, Jan. 27, from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Offered monthly during the winter, Executive Chef Guy Meikle's January's dinner series features a family-style, locally-sourced, four-course menu highlighting products from the Goose Island Beer Company and Whole Earth Meats. Featured beverages will appear on the food menu in the form of braising liquids, sauces, and more. Jim DeBolt of Goose Island will be on hand to discuss the evening's pairings while Qured Hasson of Whole Earth Meats will share information of his local, grass-fed, free-range meats and poultry. Menu items include Prince Edward Island mussels, chicken-truffle sausage, cassoulet, lamb shank and dark chocolate bread pudding paired with various Belgian-style ales and Bourbon County stout. The seated dinner is $50 per person and reservations are required and may be made by calling 312-929-2486. Nana Organic is located at 3267 South Halsted St. For more information, visit nanaorganic.com.