Martial Noguier never quite settled into his previous assignments. At one sixtyblue, his cooking would veer into French territory, but the fact diners were there for Michael Jordan’s connection as much as anything, probably limited his creativity. At Café des Architectes, inside the Hotel Sofitel, he explored his roots a bit more, but still, he was a hotel chef, succumbing to the whims of business travelers and chopped salad lunch-goers looking to get in and out in about an hour.

At Bistronomic - a stone’s throw south of the Sofitel - Noguier seems more at home than he ever has been. There are terrines and patés, of course, but also Lake Superior whitefish over French lentils and a seriously good tartar, made with tuna, rather than the more traditional (and fashionable) beef. Arriving in a glass jar, topped with lemony-scented avocado, it’s a fabulous way to wake up your mouth as you get ready for the really serious stuff.