Readers of this blog will know that I show little mercy for Italian restaurants claiming on one hand to be “authentic,” while serving dried pasta from a box. Thankfully, there are more than a handful of local chefs now rolling and cutting their own pasta, many times the result of their own taste memories from the Old Country.
In Andersonville, Ceres’ Table has proven to be a reliable option for all manner of Italian homestyle dishes, and the pastas are no exception. One in particular, the corzetti pasta, features a soft, pliable disc embedded with a faint impression, courtesy of an antique stamp. Seasonally adjusted to reflect the season, the current version is rife with large, plump fava beans, baby artichokes and asparagus, plus a tangle of pea sprouts and sun-dried tomatoes. A silky parmesan broth brings everything together in a dish worthy of anyone’s nonna.