[J]ust thinking about those tender little White Castle burgers with those little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in your mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one… just makes me want to burn this motherf---er down.
— Harold & Kumar Go to White Castle, Burger Shack Employee
Aspic is a gelatin made with stock or consommé, the latter perfectly clarified, classically with a raft of egg whites. It was once used as a preservation method in the Middle Ages, sealing meat from air and slowing spoilage. Aspic became, at its best, a chef’s shimmering edible palette at the most formal occasions. I loved learning to make it at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, and appreciate its cool, textural, and taste contrast to the rich dish encased within.
A recent rendition of Sliders in Aspic, however, was an unholy thing. Cold, hard, flavorless, lifeless jelly imprisoning a quartet of White Castle hamburgers in suspended inanimation. Tibetan Buddhists portray Hell as cold. If so, this is what you’re force-fed for eternal damnation.
The rest of the dishes at the inaugural, unofficial, local White Castle Cook-Off were actually pretty good, including the ice cream.
Last weekend we tasted some contest recipes but also original creations, two of which we who bore witness and tastebuds agreed tied for best: White Castle-Breaded Fried Chicken and Slider-Stuffed Lumpia. The Slider Consommé looked like an unmentionable sample in the clinical context, but with a flavor mercifully and pleasantly reminscent French onion soup. The Slusterd was an convergence of sliders, mustard, and frozen custard, which somehow represented all three worlds but was actually not bad.
The Sliders on a Shingle used a little-known secret menu option: bottom buns only. The Savory Slider Puck Cakes were essentially cheesy mini muffins. Lambrecht herself made 1999 Finalist, Castle Cobbler, using real apples, and the 2012 Cook-Off Winner, Sloppy Sliders.
The Sliders in Aspic however, was, well, some things can never be untasted.
White Castle opened its annual Valentine’s Day reservations yesterday. Love will be in the air with tablecloths, candlelight, flowers, and the aroma of those those little, itty-bitty grilled onions.